The high cliffs of Los Gigantees
Eight members of the Teignmouth and Dawlish Ramblers went to Tenerife during 2010 and had a walk down the Masca Gorge high on their list of things to do. Various web sites gave details about the walk that was essentially 600m of descent over 8000m of terrain, and required some scrambling in places.
The group was staying at the nearby resort of Los Gigantees and Malcolm quickly found details of a guided walk consisting of a bus from Los Gigantees to the top of the gorge, a light lunch, the services of a local guide, and a boat back to Los Gigantees. All included at a price of of 38 euro per person.
Also on offer was an alternative. Taxi to the top of the gorge for 20 euro (4 people at 5 euro each) and a boat return from the bottom of the gorge for just 8 euro per person. The route was apparently easy, although a little strenuous, but since we were ‘experienced’ Ramblers, we decided on the non - guided option. Places for 8 on the taxi and boat were booked and the scene was set for a wonderful day.
The walk was on day 3 of our ‘holiday’ and the group of 8 was reduced to 7 with Hazel being the first to be struck down by the Norovirus - since Hazel had progressed to the stage of sleeping Malcolm decided that he could do little more and left at 9:30am saying that he hoped to be back on the 4:30pm boat.
The taxi took us to the top of the gorge and we set off in good spirits at about 11am with some wonderful scenery. An early omen of the problems to come was signalled when one of our party took a tumble after less than 800m. However at this stage we continued to descend sharply and safely.
The start of the Masca Gorge walk.
It was necessary to continually cross over the river since one side was often steep smooth rock - and initially there were bridges in place that made river crossings easy.
About half way down the gorge the path turned into an interesting scramble, and Tony was able to take on his usual role of leader and helper of the less able. However we were now walking at less than 1 mile per hour and catching the first boat at 4:30pm was unlikely.
As we descended the path started to break up and large sections required the use of hands - not too difficult except that we were making very slow progress - the sun was hot - we had limited water supplies and some members of the group were starting to deteriorate.
Just over half way down the gorge we had a short meal break - Tony and Margaret didn’t want to eat and shortly afterwards started to vomit - the Norovirus had taken its second and third victims, (eventually six out of eight of our party contracted NV). I (Malcolm) was just starting to get concerned - Tony was not able to lead and could just look after himself - Margaret was going downhill fast and remembers little about the second half of the descent - Jenny needed help with the descent - and the last boat left at 6:30pm.
The decision to go back up to the start (3miles) or continue down to the sea (2miles) was finally decided for us when we descended a waterfall down through a cavern. After going down the waterfall there was no way back up the trail.
We attached ourselves to a guided party and safely descended the waterfall with a chain of experienced guides handing us down and down and down.
No more photographs were taken after this point because we entered the serious part of the walk. Four of the stronger walkers in our party managed to keep up with the guided party - who themselves had a problem with a lady who had fallen and cut her leg on the sharp volcanic rock.
Malcolm, Tony and Margaret made a painful last 2 mile descent - the path had been washed away by recent heavy rain - Margaret was badly dehydrated due to to the heat and vomiting NV - Tony was just able to look after himself - Malcolm and Tony pushed, pulled, levered and partially carried Margaret down to the boat which was waiting for us.
We eventually got back to the Hotel at about 7pm - Malcolm started with NV sickness at about 11pm - Tony and Margaret slept for 24 hours - Jenny went down with NV on the following day - Anne got home to Dawlish (just) before going down with NV. Sanchia and Dave didn’t actually get NV but were in constant fear.
What set off as an interesting holiday walk turned into something quite unpleasant. It is easy to see just how serious situations can develop.
I think we all learned something on that day.